The Rolex Submariner reference 1680, affectionately known by many as the "Red Submariner" due to its iconic red "Submariner" text on the dial, holds a special place in the hearts of collectors. While the watch itself is a legend, its bracelet often gets overlooked, unjustly so. Unlike its no-date Submariner siblings, the reference 1680's evolution wasn't marked by frequent caliber upgrades. Instead, a key area of subtle but significant change lies in its bracelet, reflecting the evolution of Rolex's manufacturing techniques and design philosophies over the years. This article will explore the intricacies of the Rolex 1680 bracelet, examining its various iterations and the factors that contribute to its desirability and value today.
The Rolex 1680, produced from approximately 1966 to 1979, was equipped with the calibre 1570, a robust and reliable movement known for its accuracy and longevity. However, while the internal workings remained consistent, the bracelet accompanying the watch underwent subtle, yet important, changes throughout its production run. Understanding these variations is crucial for collectors aiming to authenticate a specific 1680 and to appreciate the nuances of this iconic timepiece. The most common bracelet associated with the 1680 is the 93150 bracelet with 580 end links. This oyster bracelet, known for its robustness and comfort, became synonymous with the watch. However, not all 1680s came with this specific bracelet; variations exist, adding another layer of complexity and fascination to the collecting experience.
The 93150 Bracelet: The Standard Bearer
The 93150 bracelet with 580 end links is arguably the most iconic and sought-after bracelet for the 1680. Its solid construction, characteristically comfortable feel, and close association with the model make it a highly desirable component for any serious collector. The 93150 features solid, three-piece links, contributing to its durability and weight. The clasp, typically a simple oyster clasp, further reinforces the bracelet's robust design. The 580 end links, specifically designed for the 1680 case, ensure a seamless and secure fit. The careful integration of the bracelet and case is a hallmark of Rolex's attention to detail, reflecting the brand's commitment to both functionality and aesthetics.
Variations and Considerations:
While the 93150 is the most common bracelet, variations exist. These variations often reflect the evolution of Rolex's manufacturing processes and the availability of different components over the years. Collectors should carefully examine the bracelet's details, including the clasp markings, link construction, and end link type, to determine its exact age and provenance. The presence of specific markings, such as the Rolex crown logo on the clasp, helps in authentication and dating. The condition of the bracelet itself is also a crucial factor influencing its value. A well-preserved bracelet with minimal stretch and wear commands a higher price than one that shows significant signs of age and use.
Other Bracelets Associated with the 1680:
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